It's Raining! It's Pouring!

Hello World,

Just look at all the colors!

This week has been chock full of stuff. The group of us interns went out on Tuesday (the museum isn't open on Tuesdays, so we were all free from work) to go see the Orsoni furnace. This is the only mosaic producing group on Venice proper, the rest were all moved to Murano to keep the fires away from the mainland. This particular furnace managed to get around this practice by opening in the late 1800s when Venice was under Austrian rule, and the Venetian laws did not apply. They are a pretty small company and do all of the work by hand, but the products are beautiful and quality stuff. I have discovered a new love for mosaic and I think I'll try to get some more in my life.

Mawr Colors!! 

Me with the colors!!!

This was a super fascinating place to visit, though I would still love to go to Murano. The image above and on the left is a collection of the original colors offered when Orsoni started the business. Now they offer over 3,000 colors which are kept in their color library (the two picture on the right). The shelves go on forever. Apparently the most expensive are the skin colored tones, because they are made by adding gold. I learned a lot. We also got to go into the furnace and see the whole process, but no photos were allowed there. It was a really nice and warm place to be for a cold day. 

This isn't a sidewalk, it's a beach!

Speaking of its being a cold day - acqua alta!! It was super rainy and the tide got quite high. "This will be fine," I said when I left the house. "My shoes are water proof and I'm not traveling very far," I said. 

Well. "I made a terrible decision," I said after leaving Orsoni and a sidewalk filled with water was blocking my only way back home. I should have known better really, but hindsight is 20/20. My new friend/intern Leocie and I happened upon (more so, we were happened upon by) one of the many lovelies who sell the plastic rain-proof shoe covers to tourists trapped in water-y situations. We each got a pair, in black, because it goes with everything and we need to look fashionable in our plastic boots for the next two months. They are in the pictures, but I'm afraid the black makes them not highly recognizable. We did get them for quite a steal, 5 euro a piece, and if we were around San Marco instead they can cost more like 10-15 (WAY overpriced). 

Why is it so expensive near San Marco's? Because it is at one of the lowest altitudes in Venice, about 80 centimeters. So of course I need to walk there first thing to see the worst of the flooding. It's important to understand what goes on around you and all that. It would have been awesome if I were a kid, basically the biggest swimming pool I could have imagined. They do set up planks in the busiest and most flooded areas, which is especially helpful for getting to the vaporetti. And the acqua alta doesn't last all day. That being said, San Marco's was still a bit nutso flooded. The shops along the way, the ones that were open, just let the water in. You know its bad when you need to wear rain boots going into the stores. 

Notice the person casually sitting down amongst the flood waters

A close up, to see the depth

I couldn't make it into the center, because it got too deep for my boots. If you are visiting, most places you need to go beyond San Marco's aren't so bad. Having seen what the excitement was all about I wanted to find another fun artistic occasion to go to this week. I chose the Biennale! (Shocker!) Granted, it was raining then too, so very cold, but being inside much of the time was worth it. 

I took SO many pictures. I do think it could have been more impressive. The theme was a bit general, so the exhibition as a whole lacked cohesion, but much of the art itself was spectacular. It was also massive. I'm not sure I can explain how massive. It just keeps going. I took loads of picture of my favorite pieces, but I chose only a few favorites to share here. 

I'm considering going back to enjoy the section at the gardens more, but for now I'm satisfied I saw the Biennale before it ended. It may have stopped raining, but everything felt damp and cold, and by the end I really wanted to get home and eat some nice hot soup. 

Work itself has been going well! I feel like I am no longer a super newbie, though I have yet to work at the dreaded biglietteria (tickets). I have, however, given my first talk. The museum offers its visitors, as a free service, 2 talks a day about Peggy Guggenheim, 2 on pieces in the permanent collection, and 2 (1 each) for the special exhibitions. My first one was 10 minutes about Brancusi's Bird in Space sculpture - which is stunning. Success! Despite there being few people present, they were all avid listeners and I managed to stick to the time and get across a lot of information. 

As to my living arrangements, I finally discovered the discount grocery store near my house! That was honestly a big accomplishment - it was very difficult to find. And I have even done my laundry successfully! I will be one of the happiest people in the world when I get to return home and use a dryer again though. I think in general the air-drying process would go better if I could do it outside and utilize the wind, or if it were summer and I could utilize some heat. But it's working, so I can't complain too much. 

Proof of my laundry-drying prowess

And then last night I went out to eat with some friends after work (the reason for my post being a day late). It was exactly what I needed. The place is called Orient Express, and as one might guess, it wasn't Italian cuisine so much as Middle Eastern. Not too expensive, friendly, and seriously great food. Would go back again. 

The best part of the night was the dessert though! I finally had my first gelato since arriving in Italy. It is completely worth it. For fear of sounding more like a travel guide, the place is called Suso, and it is definitely the best place in town. I say this from minimal experience, but it is backed up by numerous friends from the area who agree. I got a toffee-caramel flavored one and it was heavenly. I might keep going back until I have tried all of the flavors. Updates to come on my headway. 

Rice with lamb, chicken curry, and
spinach/chickpeas/cheese.

Toffee-caramel gelato. With it's very own edible bowl

I think that's it for this week! My coming week is going to be super crazy busy because of a big Venetian celebration, but I'll do my best to keep up and have more adventures besides just working. Until nest time! A dopo

Caitlin